Needle Pushing Thimble

I am a person committed to RECYCLE.  The bad part of that is that I seldom ever just through anything away.  Recently I found about ten (10) pieces of carpet that were cut by the installer from the large piece that is now in my home.  I saw squares, rectangles, and runners that could be used in my home to help cover the wood floors.  The main problem was that the edge where the piece was cut from the large piece would unravel, get caught in the vacuum, and be very unsightly.  My solution was to purchase a set of 5 needles ranging from 3 inches to 4 inches long, and I found online a 100 yard role of carpet binder that is 1 ½ inch wide.  Instead of thread, I used some Fluorocarbon Leader, which is a 2 pound test fishing line used to attach between the line used by fly fishermen and the small insect looking “fly” on the end.  I ran into a problem when I tried to push the needle through the carpet edge where the binder was folded over.  The carpet had a layer of glue that attaches the fluffy pile of the carpet to the woven mat on the bottom.  At first I used pliers to grip and push the needle, and then I realized all I needed was a type of thimble, so I designed and made one.

I found this to be so helpful that I decided to make one smaller for regular length needles and usable on day to day jobs of mending clothes, coats, and other repair jobs around the house.

From a wooden dowel I cut two pieces 1 ½ in. long.  The diameter should be at least ½ in. and up to what feels comfortable in your hand.

I moved the fence of my table saw closer to the blade so that the blade would be centered on the end of the pieces. 

I lowered the blade so my test strip would be only a 1/8 in. depth, or less.  By sliding the pieces across the blade, roll it over 180 degrees and make a second pass, I am making the groove that will be needed for the thin inserts used when the glue is applied.

While I’m using the table saw, I now move the fence closer so the short piece of wood I use for a test will produce the thickness I need. 

I can test this by holding a grooved piece of dowel up to compare the fit before the full cut is made.  I raise the blade next so the cut will go through the piece of wood, and make a rip cut.  To be sure of the thickness, 

I test by inserting the just ripped piece into the groove of the dowel.

Checking the depth of the groove, I can now set my fence on my band saw and rip the insert to produce 4 pieces for my use when I get ready to do the glue up steps for the assembly.

  

From my collection of nails, I find two nails with a shaft of 7/64 in. and the head is 19/64 in.  The entire nail is too long, so a cut is made just about 3/8 in. below the head.

By placing the cut piece of the nail head beside the dowel, I can mark where I wish to place the nail inside the dowel.  This will give me the bottom mark (right) for the depth of the 7/64 drilling and the top mark (left) will show me where to cross cut the dowel to separate the top from the bottom.

I set the depth on my drill press, and drill the 7/64 in. hole.

Next I pencil mark the side of the dowel from top to bottom lightly,

then I cross cut the dowel at the mark closest to the end just drilled.

I replace the drill bit with the 19/64 in. bit and place the longer portion of the just cut dowel with the hole just drilled at the top so that I may remove about 1/8 in. for a countersink.  This is going to accommodate the head of the nail, so it is better to be a little deeper rather than a fraction too shallow.  Too shallow will allow the nail head to prevent proper alignment for the glue job of the top and the bottom pieces of the dowel during the assembly.

Now the assembly is ready. 

 I insert the nail and

 check to see if the head is down below the surface…

Then I put all parts out so that I may add the glue and not get anything in the wrong orientation or happen to get the top incorrectly turned 180 degrees when set onto the bottom.  This would likely make the opposite side groove be unable to allow the insertion of the thin piece of wood which is intended to align and secure the solidity of the unit after the glue has set and dried. 

First I dry fit the unit to be sure all is well.  Please note the double mark side which is vital to prevent the top being turned or upside down.  Here I did notice that the insert on one side was not seated in the groove at both ends.  My inspection of the problem determined that the nail head was protruding just a millimeter into the bottom of the groove on one side. 

To correct this I used a sharp blade to cut a tiny notch in the insert.

I add glue to the two surfaces of the dowel that will rejoin the dowel, join the two pieces to make one, and

add a clamp to put pressure on the glue.  Quickly I take an insert and dry fit that into its groove to be sure there is no adjustment needed.  Next glue is added to the groove and the insert of one side, and then they are joined.  Now the same procedure is used for the groove and insert for the other side. 

Using two clamps, I add one to each end and position the clams so that the pressure is on the insert pieces so they are securely squeezed into the grooves.

After letting this set for 24 hours, I take the reassembled thimble to my belt sander to sand the alignment pieces sticking out at the ends and on the sides so the assembled unit once again looks like a 1 ½ in. piece of dowel, except there is a small hole in one end and a couple of stripes, one on each side.

I sand the end with the hole to a tapered shape,

 and the other end I round like a knob.

Back at the drill press I have a 1/8 in. bit so I can drill a hole in the bottom.  This hole only needs to be about 1/8 or 3/16 in. deep.  The hole will be filled with glue, then a 12 to 14 inch piece of Polypropylene line should be folded over, the two ends are inserted into the hole, and the glue will bind it for the hold.

 

 After a couple of hours, I’m ready to slip the line over my wrist and use my thimble to accomplish a job of sewing through tough material. 

 

Flip my wrist and I can grab the thimble, insert the needle back end into the hole,

 

take aim and insert then push through.  Now I can drop the thimble because I do not need it until the next stitch, and the line around my wrist will keep the thimble ready to use again.  Just a flip of my wrist and I’m moving on.

This small item could be a perfect gift for someone that sews, and made by you.  Useful for carpet binding, darning socks, buttons on coats, needle point stitching, or any of thousands of chores that older hands needing a little help might truly enjoy.  Thanks for your attention, and good luck…