I am a person committed to RECYCLE. The bad part of that is that I seldom ever
just through anything away. Recently I
found about ten (10) pieces of carpet that were cut by the installer from the
large piece that is now in my home. I
saw squares, rectangles, and runners that could be used in my home to help
cover the wood floors. The main problem
was that the edge where the piece was cut from the large piece would unravel,
get caught in the vacuum, and be very unsightly. My solution was to purchase a set of 5
needles ranging from 3 inches to 4 inches long, and I found online a 100 yard
role of carpet binder that is 1 ½ inch wide.
Instead of thread, I used some Fluorocarbon Leader, which is a 2 pound
test fishing line used to attach between the line used by fly fishermen and the
small insect looking “fly” on the end. I
ran into a problem when I tried to push the needle through the carpet edge
where the binder was folded over. The carpet
had a layer of glue that attaches the fluffy pile of the carpet to the woven
mat on the bottom. At first I used
pliers to grip and push the needle, and then I realized all I needed was a type
of thimble, so I designed and made one.
I found this to be so helpful that I decided to make one
smaller for regular length needles and usable on day to day jobs of mending
clothes, coats, and other repair jobs around the house.
From a wooden dowel I cut two pieces 1 ½ in. long. The diameter should be at least ½ in. and up
to what feels comfortable in your hand.
I moved the fence of my table saw closer to the blade so
that the blade would be centered on the end of the pieces.
I lowered the blade so my test strip would be only a 1/8
in. depth, or less. By sliding the
pieces across the blade, roll it over 180 degrees and make a second pass, I am
making the groove that will be needed for the thin inserts used when the glue is
applied.
While I’m using the table saw, I now move the fence
closer so the short piece of wood I use for a test will produce the thickness I
need.
I can test this by holding a grooved piece of dowel up to
compare the fit before the full cut is made. I raise the blade next so the cut will go through the piece of wood, and make a rip cut. To be sure of the thickness,
I test by inserting the just ripped piece into the
groove of the dowel.
Checking the depth of the groove, I can now set my fence
on my band saw and rip the insert to produce 4 pieces for my use when I get
ready to do the glue up steps for the assembly.
By placing the cut piece of the nail head beside the
dowel, I can mark where I wish to place the nail inside the dowel. This will give me the bottom mark (right) for the
depth of the 7/64 drilling and the top mark (left) will show me where to cross cut the
dowel to separate the top from the bottom.
I set the depth on my drill press, and drill the 7/64 in.
hole.
Next I pencil mark the side of the dowel from top to
bottom lightly,
then I cross cut the dowel at the mark closest to the end
just drilled.
I replace the drill bit with the 19/64 in. bit and place
the longer portion of the just cut dowel with the hole just drilled at the top
so that I may remove about 1/8 in. for a countersink. This is going to accommodate the head of the
nail, so it is better to be a little deeper rather than a fraction too
shallow. Too shallow will allow the nail
head to prevent proper alignment for the glue job of the top and the bottom pieces
of the dowel during the assembly.
Now the assembly is ready.
Then I put all
parts out so that I may add the glue and not get anything in the wrong
orientation or happen to get the top incorrectly turned 180 degrees when set
onto the bottom. This would likely make
the opposite side groove be unable to allow the insertion of the thin piece of
wood which is intended to align and secure the solidity of the unit after the
glue has set and dried.
First I dry fit the unit to be sure all is well. Please note the double mark side which is vital to prevent the top being turned or upside down. Here I did notice that the insert on one side
was not seated in the groove at both ends.
My inspection of the problem determined that the nail head was
protruding just a millimeter into the bottom of the groove on one side.
To correct this I used a sharp blade to cut a tiny notch
in the insert.
I add glue to the two surfaces of the dowel that will
rejoin the dowel, join the two pieces to make one, and
add a clamp to put pressure on the glue. Quickly I take an insert and dry fit that
into its groove to be sure there is no adjustment needed. Next glue is added to the groove and the
insert of one side, and then they are joined.
Now the same procedure is used for the groove and insert for the other
side.
Using two clamps, I add one to each end and position the clams
so that the pressure is on the insert pieces so they are securely squeezed into
the grooves.
After letting this set for 24 hours, I take the
reassembled thimble to my belt sander to sand the alignment pieces sticking out
at the ends and on the sides so the assembled unit once again looks like a 1 ½
in. piece of dowel, except there is a small hole in one end and a couple of stripes,
one on each side.
I sand the end with the hole to a tapered shape,
Back at the drill press I have a
1/8 in. bit so I can drill a hole in the bottom. This hole only needs to be about 1/8 or 3/16
in. deep. The hole will be filled with
glue, then a 12 to 14 inch piece of Polypropylene
line should be folded over, the two ends are inserted into the hole, and the glue
will bind it for the hold.
After a couple of hours, I’m ready to slip the line over my wrist and use my thimble to accomplish a job of sewing through tough material.
Flip my wrist and I can grab the thimble, insert the needle back end into the hole,
take aim and insert then push through. Now I can drop the thimble because I do not need it until the next stitch, and the line around my wrist will keep the thimble ready to use again. Just a flip of my wrist and I’m moving on.
This small item could be a perfect gift for someone that
sews, and made by you. Useful for carpet
binding, darning socks, buttons on coats, needle point stitching, or any of
thousands of chores that older hands needing a little help might truly
enjoy. Thanks for your attention, and
good luck…
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